7:00 AM
Great dancers are not great because of their technique, they are great because of their passion – Martha Graham
Today, I started-off my road playlist with “L-O-V-E” (1964) by Natalie Cole: L is for the way you look at me, O is for the only one I see, V is very, very extraordinary, E is even more than anyone that you adore can. I selected this song because this is an extraordinary love story.
In this “My Scooter Sunday”, I altered my basic riding route from Petaling Jaya to Kuala Lumpur, travelling on the highway instead of the city streets. I picked-up Jalan (Road) Raja Laut, to Jalan Dang Wangi to Jalan Sultan Ismail, and then onto my final destination on Jalan Doraisamy in Chow Kit. Click on video below to see the ride to Jalan Doraisamy.
Here, 22 shophouses (shops downstairs and houses upstairs) from the 1950s have been converted into stylish bistros, cafes, shops, and art galleries. It is called “The Row”. And located at No. 50 is a small restaurant called “Limapulo”(50). Owned by Alan Yun, and formerly run by executive chef, John Tan Kim Chye, “Limapulo” is an antique-filled Baba-Nyonya restaurant.
Fondly known as Uncle John, John Tan, is of Baba-Nyonya heritage from the state of Malacca. Sadly, when I went to the restaurant, I was informed that Uncle John had passed away earlier this year. But thankfully, his life work is well documented, and his passion is well alive.
The origin of the Baba-Nyonya culture is unclear. But Uncle John’s take was: “My grandfather’s ancestors came from China. They could have travelled down in a junk to the Straits of Malacca, and landed somewhere in Jawa, or Sumatera. And they could have migrated back to Malacca” (Baba Can Cook Videos).
“Nyonya food is a typical special type of food fusion of the Chinese, Indonesian, Indian, and Portuguese, and they all came to the state of Malacca. They came to either occupy the state, or to do trade with the state. So, that kind of food, ethnic food, passed down the line up to this generation”.
“When I was six or seven years old, I used to watch my mother cooking. At that time, it was a difficult life. So, I took a lot of pity on my mother having to work so hard. And I tried my best, when I was young and small, to help her whenever I can, including cooking”.
Uncle John had several jobs before he found his passion. Starting his work life first as a teacher, he moved to the Rubber Research Institute (15 years). Then he worked as a tourist guide, where he ran his own travel agency (20 years). And fed up with these jobs, he returned to his hometown of Malacca (Baba Can Cook Videos).
In Malacca, he started a fruit orchard, and reared rare chicken (16 years). After this, he joined his brother in a restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. One year later, he and his godson opened their own restaurant called “Limablas”; and a year later, they opened “Limapulo” at No. 50 Jalan Doraisamy. After more than 50 years of trial and error, Uncle John finally found his passion.
Talking about his passion, Uncle John said, “I will, if I can, do what I like to do passionately, and that is cooking, and I like to do the best Nyonya food I can produce, and let people enjoy it. And I will continue cooking, as it’s a passion, because I do it with love, passion, and passion” (Baba Can Cook Videos).
Uncle John’s day would start at 4:00 am. He would leave home on his WER 6669 motorbike, and head-out to market to buy produce for the day. After this, he had his Teh Tarik (“pulled tea”, where the tea is cooled by pouring from one container to another, resulting in a frothy beverage) in a Mamak (person of Indian Muslim origin) stall nearby. And he would get to the restaurant by 6:00 am to start his basic cooking for the day (“Limapulo” Videos).
Talking about the “Limapulo” signature dish, the Nyonya Laksa Lemak (noodles in spicy broth), he said, “This recipe was taught to me by my mother, whose laksa was the pride of our family. The only difference is that while she uses the traditional method of approximation (agak-agak) for quantity of ingredients, I carefully measure out mine (FocusMalaysia, 2020).
Technically, the laksa served in “Limapulo” is not strictly curry laksa. This is because they do not use curry powder or curry leaves. Instead, they use turmeric, shallots, galangal (Thai ginger), lemongrass, candlenuts and dried chilies. Uncle John explained the process, “Because we only use fresh ingredients in our laksa, preparing it is a very tedious process as it takes hours to peel the ingredients. Blending the ingredients takes more than three hours, and preparing the broth takes another two hours.” The laksa broth is made out of freshly grated coconut milk, and the ingredients in the broth are noodles, fried tofu puffs, fish cake, fish balls, bean sprouts, hard-boiled egg, shredded chicken, and fried beancurd skin.
And make a mental note to self that the laksa at “Limapulo” is only served three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday); and they serve only 70 bowls a day, which are usually sold out by lunch! Not surprising, given that “Limapulo” won the “The Star’s People’s Food Award” for the best curry laksa in the Klang Valley (Kuali, 2015).
Talking about life lessons, Uncle John said, “Money is not everything in the world. You cannot collect all the money in the world. Always remember to do something that you like to do, and not what you have to do. If you are not happy with what you do, no matter what the value, no matter what your rewards, you will remain unhappy. It’s a torture, it’s agony, and it’s a misery”. “Money has got its purpose .… I am not working for the money. I am working because of passion and love".
Speaking about work and passion, my mother agreed you can find the right work by identifying your passion. Clearly, in Uncle John’s case, it was cooking Nyonya food he learned from his mother’s kitchen. As for the money and passion, she felt that you could have both. “If you are passionate about your work, your passion will pay. But you could also be passionate about your work, but your work may not pay. So, you have to be lucky too! ”
I completed “My Scooter Sunday” by travelling back to Petaling Jaya on the Federal Highway using Waze. My roundtrip is 30 km, and one hour long. JuJu is running well, and is getting to know Kuala Lumpur well too. And what I enjoyed most was riding with passion from Kuala Lumpur, and eating Uncle John’s Laksa at “Limapulo”.
Scootin’ off for now! Click on video below to see the ride back to Petaling Jaya.
44 comments on “"P-A-S-S-I-O-N"”
May, just logged into the site after reading your exploits only on my phone. Very well designed and clean site! Congratulations. Drooling over the lakhsa while listening to Natalie Cole and reading about Juju's wanderings. Very nice.
You are creative and imaginative. From where does the flow of thoughts come for you? It is awesome. All the best for your future rides.
- Malar.
Good Afternoon May: I went through the video P-A-S-S-I-O-N. You are able to wear so many hats - journalism, photography, research. JuJu is an asset for your passion in exploring KL, and PJ. Uncle John's story is interesting. He also has worn many hats before finding his passion. I admire the people who could keep changing unrelated professions, and doing a good job of it by putting their heart and soul into it. The ROW is something new to me, and I am getting to know KL/PJ - armchair travelling is enjoyable!
- Dr. Jeya
Hello I am back
I would like to say, I like how brave you were went you checked out the "Haunted Room"
I like your scooters name, JuJu
😉
Dear Missy Wolf! Thank you for your comments. Yes, I too like the name "JuJu!"
Love the write-up dearest cousin and the music. It’s a cold wintery night here down under and I’m craving for that laksa. 😂
Kamalini! Thank you for reading, listening, and commenting. The laksa at Limapulo is worth the ride to Chow Kit!
Wow May, this is getting better by the week!!! Love the music and the video. Now even with the visual and listening to the music while I was reading - it is as if I am right there with you on JuJu.
The food just looked AMAZING 😋😋😋
Passion is the key always!!! And as one can taste it with uncle John’s cooking. I can see it in your writing too 😘😘😘
Dear Deborah! Thank you for reading, listening, and commenting. You are one of my most faithful followers!
Wow, I love the Scooter Sundays. I also like how a name is written on the surface of the Scooter
Have a wonderful time riding 💖
Miss Wolf! You are the first person on this blog to have such an unusual name. Thank you for reading, thank for listening, and thank you for commenting. JuJu is the name of my scooter (my Vespa Primavera), and I also like the way the name is written on the scooter!
A really informative write-up! Love reading your weekly blog. Need to make a trip to this place on my upcoming visit!
Dear Lav! Glad you enjoy reading the weekly blogs. Yes, Limapulo is worth a visit! Try our videos too; they were a hit this "My Scooter Sunday!"
Wow! What a story! Really enjoy reading your articles. Can't wait to try out Uncle John's laksa. 😋 BTW, love your taste in songs too. 😉😁 The way you write makes me feel like I'm your passenger on your beloved JuJu!
Dear Annam! Thank you for reading, listening, and commenting. I really appreciate all your comments on the blog, and WhatsApp too! Take care.
I am amazed by the ability and the p-a-s-s-i-o-n of all the research
behind these write ups..keep going...hope to ride with you on a sunday in the near future...keep a spare helmet just in case..
I am amazed by the ability and the p-a-s-s-i-o-n of yr research behind these write ups..pls keep going..cant wait to see (and eat)
all these stuff I am reading about..
I hope to ride with you one sunday in the near future..keep a spare helmet in case..
Dear Kohula! Yes! Limapulo is certainly worth a visit. We could go together! And I have a spare helmet!
Hi May, I was introduced to your articles by my good friend Nithi (your bro). Your write ups are awesome and is like being a passenger on JUJU and going down memory lane.👌👌👌
Dear Haema! Thank you for reading, listening, and commenting. And I am happy that you enjoyed the ride with JuJu!
Hi May
Very interesting n informative writeup. Enjoyed reading it. Brought back memories of my school days at St. John’s when I used to take the bus from Malacca Street bus station and change bus at Chow Kit Road to reach home.
Your blog sure makes me want to visit the place to see the changes.
How beautiful KL is on a Sunday morning!
Keep at it May !
Wow wow
Thank you for the history.
I have enjoyed your Sunday write ups and the wonderful oldies.
I am seeing these places with new eyes!
Love it Xxx
Hi May
Very interesting n informative blog. Enjoyed it very much. Brought back memories of my school days at St. John’s when I had to change bus at Chow Kit road to get off at Ipoh road in front of Murugan temple to get home .
The whole scenery has changed and your blog sure makes us want to visit the place.
Your blog not only covered food but the whole scenery to and fro.
How beautiful Kuala Lumpur is on a Sunday morning!😃
Keep it going May👍
Wonderful write-up. You should think about compiling all this into a book.
Love
Mommy (Jaya Anandakrishnan)
Thank you, Mom! You reading the blog, and giving feedback means a lot to me. I love the idea of the book too. I will stew on it! Your daughter-in-law: Menaka
Lovely trip down memory lane in a way for me as I know the place well. I haven’t been there in many years though.
Gives me reason to head there with family and have that laksa that you described so tastefully.
Keep on riding and rocking May Maniam.
Waiting to hear your next experience and adventure on JuJu.
Sree! Thank for your feedback, and words of encouragement. I love reading your post.
May
Beautiful sceneries on Julu ride, a feast for the eyes and relaxing music for the ears, a mouth watering description of Uncle John's Nyonya laksa. Curious to try it. A thought on what next week's Myscootersunday would bring! Your blog is a refreshing read on a Sunday.
Uncle Sultan! Terima Kasih for reading, listening, and commenting. Your encouragement means a lot to me. Thank you, and take care.
Awesome May...Just awesome
Meera! Thank you for taking the time to read, listen, and also provide feedback. Take care, and safe travels!
I took Dheepan here for one of his birthdays as he loves his Nyonya food! We enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing Uncle John’s story! ❤️
Lovely write up May, 💖
Enjoyed reading your experience.
Now, have to try this Nyonya Laksa!!
Thavam! It took a food blog post to get you out of the side-lines! Thank you for reading, and thank you for commenting!
I eat here occasionally since starting work (it's nearby my office). Great to know the back story and motivation behind the hands preparing my food!
Ashwin! Thank you for reading, and thank you for commenting!
Also…. Add on to my previous comments… LOVE the RED SCOOTER SUNDAY for a change up..
Red for passion !
❤️
Nishkah! You noticed everything about the blog post! Terima Kasih!
Your new blog, great! 👌👍👏🌹
Wow!
I enjoyed the whole experience!!
You started with Natalie’s jazzy blues version of L-O-V-E which I’ve not heard before. I only know Nat King Cole’s version and her versions alone and with her father. I thoroughly enjoyed ‘my’ ride to Limapulo.
The Row looks like a lovely place to hang out on a clear bright morning like today.. and perhaps at night too would look beautiful with the lightings!
I’m sorry you missed meeting Uncle John himself… but glad you’ve captured the heart of his journey and messages to all.
Your mother (incidentally is also my lovely grandmother😄) is a wise and sound ol lady!
Yur passion will pay… but need “just a little bit of luck” (from My Fair Lady) too for the work to $$pay as well!
I will have to try out the food …!
Your 2 versions of Route 66 was nice- apt for Ms LA now residing in PJ Malaysia!
I enjoyed viewing a beautiful , clean , fresh and green KL PJ with its high rise and low rise buildings!
THANK YOU for sharing!
❤️
Thank you, NISHKAH! You are a champion!
Love reading about your adventures.I hope to go to Uncle John's restaurant and taste his Laksa.
It was indeed another wonderful write-up. A lot of research has gone into this blog too. I am sure many will now go there just to taste Uncle John's laksa. I for one did; it was different from the normal laksa because it does not have curry power or curry leaves in it. Everyone should try it. The place gets full very quickly; and the laksa finishes fast. That was a wonderful experience. Don't expect any grandeur but its different. It is clean. Tq May for the experience. All should try it out. Waiting for JuJu’s next outing!
Nice commentary, and great to see businesses back up in full force in Jalan Doraisamy.
For many years since the early 2000s until about 5 years ago, the outlets on Jalan Doraisamy (next to Sheraton Imperial) was a very popular nightspot area called Heritage Row. Great restaurants, nightclubs and bars.
But due to a few nasty incidents in one or two premises, people started avoiding the area and it died a natural death, then Covid came of course.
I love the way you have taken the trouble to document the Baba Nyonya heritage and about Uncle John. Thank you.
But seriously, you work so fast, and with great PASSION, that you could get this out in your blog in less than an hour after your ride. That's amazing.
Having said that. Laksa for breakfast? Wow! I could not have something so spicy that early.